Destination Dining has gone country.
Husband and wife/executive chef and general manager Jonathan Justus and Camille Eklof are serving inspired foods crafted from locally grown, seasonal ingredients at Justus Drugstore: A Restaurant in Smithville.
What Chez Panisse has done in Berkeley, Calif., Justus is doing in this rural town. Everything is made from scratch, from the breads to the ice creams. And the farmers and producers who contribute are listed on the menu.
When guests are seated, they are told the table is theirs for the evening. No one will hover; no one will rush them through courses. Thus they are allowed to enjoy every bite at their leisure, one soulful forkful at a time.
An amuse-bouche of house-made Berkshire pork rillette is followed by an appetizer of smoked walleye brandade ($7), slathered on toasted homemade crostini. A curly endive salad ($8) is sprinkled with smoky lardons and crowned with a crispy-coated, soft-boiled egg dabbed with smoked trout roe.
Justus, who was raised in Smithville, pays homage to pork with his signature Pork Two Ways ($20), a grilled rib-eye brined with Asian spices and a slow-roasted pork shoulder brined with fall spices like coriander and ginger.
The dessert menu changes frequently, as does the dinner menu. Pecan tartlettes ($6), flecked with coconut, come with a tiny scoop of sweet corn ice cream with the summery kiss of fresh-shucked corn.
Courses can be paired with staff-selected wines, available in two sizes. Or diners can order a finely crafted martini, such as the Piedmontese Pirate ($7).
Justus Drugstore: A Restaurant is at 106 W. Main St., Smithville (816-532-2300).
|Lauren Chapin, lchapin@kcstar.com