LOCAL DESIGNERS ARE MAKING THEIR MARK AT KC BOUTIQUES
Not since the days of the garment district has Kansas City been so alive with fashion.
New designers are selling their wares at monthly Wear Haus and bimonthly Haute Market events. And from Lee’s Summit to Lawrence, locally owned shops are opening their doors to Kansas City clothing and jewelry designers. A few examples:
Deegie’s Carma, which has relocated from The Legends to Camelot Court, hosted an open call for designers and chose two local companies to showcase in the store — Gillius Inc. and Happy Rhino.
Pophearts in Lee’s Summit offers the Mirror Queen line of clothing and accessories, designed by owner Gabriel Garner, and features the work of other local and independent designers as well.
The Crossroads Arts District is a hotbed of up-and-coming designers: Joscelyn Himes, a textile and clothing designer; Peggy Noland, a clothing designer; Birdies Panties, a shop that carries locally made lingerie and swimwear; and Lover Cosmetics, a makeup line that originated in KC.
The fashion scene continues to flourish as clothing and jewelry designers establish their brands. This month we’re highlighting three local companies and their talented designers: Sophie & Gwendalynn by Amy Collier and Wendy Gillman; Gillius Inc. by John Sebelius; and Tomboy by Laura McGrew. Each has a distinct style and approach to fashion.
SOPHIE & GWENDALYNN
Designers: Wendy Gillman, left, and Amy Collier.
The design team of Amy Collier and Wendy Gillman, behind the Sophie & Gwendalynn label, focuses on fashion’s most fundamental element — construction. With a start in foundations — corsets and lingerie — the two have expanded into dress design.
You do amazing tailoring and construction. Where did you learn your techniques?
We have both been sewing since childhood — starting out making doll clothes — then expanded our skills through the years with a lot of practice and pursuit. I (Amy) have a degree from Kansas State University, and Wendy has a degree from Iowa State, both with emphasis in clothing design and merchandising. We met while working for an East Coast wedding gown designer. We have been working together, designing Sophie & Gwendalynn, for over five years.
What sparked your interest in designing corsets?
We both have a background in the wedding industry, one that trains you for fit and construction perfection. We loved the luxurious fabrics and precise techniques involved in creating wedding gowns but wanted to translate that into something that could be worn more often and cherished just as much. Our corsets can be worn under clothes to create a slim silhouette, but they can also be paired with a long skirt for an elegant evening look, worn with jeans out to the club or even under a jacket to the office. Our goal is to help women look and feel as sexy on the outside as they do on the inside.
DIPPED IN CHOCOLATE: Chocolate brown looks like a decadent truffle when paired with a pastel color. Sophie & Gwendalynn designed this chocolate strapless gown trimmed with a robin’s egg blue bow. Brown gown $325, Ted Rossi Swarovski crystal cuff $154, Haught Style.
Do both of you sew and design or do you each specialize in a certain area?
We are multitaskers, collaborating together on designs, patterning and sharing the sewing work load. We are best friends, as well as business partners, and we respect each other’s ideas. Our business was born from our weekly girls’ nights. We had both moved to Kansas City and longed to get back to our bridal roots. We t hought, “Why not start our own business?” and every week we met and planned.
Do you plan on expanding your line beyond corsets and dresses?
Custom-made lingerie has been our core business. We plan to expand by adding more items to our lingerie collection, such as garter belts, panties and nighties. Our sales are primarily Web based, but we also participate in local shopping markets, such as the Haute Market. We are also looking to develop our wholesale business. Haught Style in Prairie Village carries our line of summer sundresses, and we are hoping to find local boutiques that would be interested in picking up the lingerie line as well.
Who are some of your favorite designers?
Don’t get me wrong, we love to follow fashion, but when it comes to our designs, we draw more inspiration from classic beauties such as Marilyn Monroe, Ava Gardner, Sophia Loren and Audrey Hepburn. We also love the ’50s pin-ups, especially those of artist Gil Elvgren. And we a dmire elements of historic fashion and artists such as Edgar Degas and Gustav Klimt.
TOMBOY BY LAURA MCGREW
THE DESIGNER: Laura McGrew
Laura McGrew, owner and designer of Tomboy Design Studio, focuses on classic pieces with modern updates and attention to key details. After five years of custom design work, she is adding a wholesale line to her business under the label Laura McGrew.
What sparked your interest in fashion?
I have had an interest in clothing construction since I met my first sewing machine in middle school home ec class. Even then I was on a quest to create styles no one else had. I’ve always seen fashion as a way to express one’s individuality and personal creativity. How did you decide on your target market? Many people are surprised to hear our target market is 35-65, but it’s a natural fit for my more classic design style. Many women over 40 are concerned about wearing clothing that looks too young, but can’t find suitable alternatives in the mass channels. My product line really grew out of a desire to fill that void. Also, I find that women over 40 are more apt to understand the value of building a wardrobe over time — based on quality pieces they know they will get a lot of wear out of — rather than buying a disposable wardrobe each season.
Tell me about your new wholesale line.
After five years of running the studio successfully, I decided to branch out and offer other boutiques the opportunity to sell my line of luxury dresses and separates. I started with the styles we had developed for Tomboy during holiday ’08. I really listened to our customers in the store, and I know what sells well, so I took the key concepts and redeveloped some of our best pieces into one cohesive collection for fall/holiday ’09.
BLUE MOON: Blue netting takes on a sophisticated tone when layered over a nude fabric. Laura McGrew designed the “Laura” dress for herself and liked it so much, she decided to include it in her new wholesale line. Blue dress $550, Style & Grace
How is the market in KC for fashion right now?
Although negative reporting on the economy has impacted consumer confidence to a degree, we are still experiencing growth over last year. I believe this is due to our core customers, who understand the value of buying local and are willing to come out in support of small businesses, while they may be cutting back elsewhere.
What are some of your favorite trends for summer and early fall?
I love plaid pants. I have several bolts of vintage plaid in the studio that we have cut into long shorts. And I’m really loving high-waisted pants — they are flattering to almost everyone because they virtually eliminate the dreaded “muffin top.” Tunics and leggings are making a big comeback, and personally I couldn’t be happier because it’s such an easy silhouette to wear, especially if you are over 40.
PORTRAIT OF AN UP-AND-COMER
THE DESIGNER: John Sebelius
John Sebelius, son of Kansas Gov. Kathleen Sebelius, approaches fashion from an artistic perspective with unique surface designs. He draws portraits on vintage shirts and jackets with permanent marker, occasionally adding splashes of color.
What was the first article of clothing that you drew on?
A basic white dress shirt. I chose to illustrate Andre Benjamin, from the music group OutKast. The majority of my designs early on were hip-hop artists.
Why did you decide to go the fashion route in lieu of fine art?
I wouldn’t say I chose fashion over fine art, but tried to find a way to marry them — taking strong elements of my background in illustration and reworking them to fit the fashion game.
You won the Deegie’s Carma local designer contest and had your clothing featured in the store. How did you hear about the competition?
I worked with Ed Markley in the past, and he called to inform me of the competition. I’m glad I decided to take the risk.
TWO'S COMPANY: Basic men’s button-down shirts take on a whole new look when local designer John Sebelius gets hold of them. He hand dyes and draws portraits on vintage s hirts that look great on men or women. Turquoise shirt $110, belt $68, white/pink/blue shirt $110, shorts $118, Deegie’s Carma; AG jeans $178, Denim Couture; pink ring $88, hoop earrings $88, Bella B’s Boutique
What brought you back to KC after working in Chicago?
I made a conscious effort to set up shop and start my business back in the Midwest, more importantly Kansas. It has such a rich art community and is one of the most cost-effective areas a young business owner can live and work.
Do you think you will expand?
I am definitely hoping to expand in the future. I am currently working on getting a few designs printed on T’s, hoodies and tank tops, but I will continue to design limited-edition pieces, as well.
I have to ask what your mom thinks about your line — does she wear any of your designs?
She does wear a few pieces from my line. At times she uses me as her personal designer.
Will you be participating in any upcoming shows or events?
I am working on creating an annual art and music concert/show with a few friends.
- Heather Krafft, The Kansas City Star